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New member & new build
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TOPIC: New member & new build

New member & new build 16 years, 3 months ago #1905

  • Schumi
  • OFFLINE
  • Drivers Ed
  • Posts: 3
Hi guys, my name is Mike Eckert. I'm from the Pelican boards and reside in southeast Missouri. Just picked up an another 87 924S to build into a trials/spec car in addition to my other 87 924S which I have owned for about 3 years now. Just started prepping the tub and will be pulling and rebuilding the engine next month.

I'm not quite new to racing... I'm an engineering student and have worked on rally car chassis preparation, open wheel single seater formula cars, raced karts, etc.. but I do not have a club racing license. That's hurdle number 1 after I get the car prepped and ready for some DE's.

I am probably going to be looking for suggestions on things coming up as far as a cage, seats, etc. This is a low budget project. By low budget however I do not mean skimping on safety. I just may not be doing some of the more pricey suspension upgrades right away- the key is getting prepped car in time to get my license.

But to start off I guess I have one big question-

The 924S comes with 6" phone dials normally. These must be upgraded to 7" wheels all around for the spec tire? If so, they are just bolt on, or does this require fender rolling? I have seen a lot of 924S's in the field so I figure this is a common problem..

I'll post pictures of my build progress soon. I am in the middle of stripping the tub of sound deadening goo and working on electronics.


-Mike
Last Edit: 16 years, 3 months ago by Schumi.

Re:New member & new build 16 years, 3 months ago #1906

The 924S must use 7" late offset phone dials to clear the fenders. The rolling applies to the inside of fender as the outside profile may not be changed. This allowance is to ensure the tires fit on all cars. Most do not do this and I don't know any the have. One issue with 225's adn 7" wheels is the front tires contacting the springs. Whith lots of negative camber on the stock adjuster you can get rubbing there. One solution is a small spacer. You don't need much may be 1/4". Of course watch to make sure you still have enough engagement on the wheel studs if you do this.

More commonly 2.5" springs are used with camber plates. For these cars there is plenty of clearnace due to much small spring diamter.

Rear's seem to be ok as is.

Now for now you can run the car with 6"s in DE. Then look for the right wheels and tires. The 225's wont fit well on 6" wheels.

As for the prep the minumum prep on budget is 100% stock except stripped out, tires/wheels and with cage, seat harness, etc. The car can be raced with a stock suspension. It will lean alot, but less than a stock car since it will be 350lbs ligther. This is the quickest way to get in the game. You may or may not be competitive as that depends on the competition. In Arizona we have some of most developed cars and drivers around and a car like that would be back of the pack. Then again some of us have been racing these cars coming on 6 years this september. I have been driving mine (started in autocross stripped, but stock) for 8 years this October.

Still we all started somewhere so don't worry.
Joe Paluch
944 Spec #94 Gina Marie Paper Designs
Arizona Regional 944 Spec Director, National Rules Coordinator
2006 Az Champion - 944 Spec Racer Since 2002

Re:New member & new build 16 years, 3 months ago #1909

Welcome to 944-spec ! The midwest region is showing the highest percentage growth of all of our regions and soon will number in the 20's !

Do you know Joel ? He will be going to Hastings next month not sure if your up for a road trip ...

944-SPEC is all about having fun ! a car with limited upgrades is still a hoot to race and Midwest region will even pay sponsorship $ if you finish LAST !

Re:New member & new build 16 years, 3 months ago #1911

  • 944cer
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  • Seasoned Racer
  • Posts: 193
Welcome Mike,
There is alot of help on this forum, don't be afraid to ask. Seat time is your best friend so take Joe's advice. I'd do the cage/seat/harness first. The rod bearings, water pump, timing belt, oil pan baffle and oil cooler when you rebuild the engine but before you push the car too hard. The rest can happen as finances permit.
Lee

Re:New member & new build 16 years, 3 months ago #1912

  • pixrken
  • OFFLINE
  • Moderator
  • NorCal 944-Spec Director
  • Posts: 579
Hi Mike,

WELCOME!
You'll find the 944-SPEC series very friendly to beginner and experience racers alike.

What Joe said, you'll need the 7" late offset (52mm) phone dial wheels. We tried stuffing a 7" early offset (23mm) cookie cutter onto a 924S to get a wider track and to use a lighter legal wheel but it didn't work.

I use to think you need a fully built out car (full suspension, engine, etc.) to race but I completely reverse my thinking after seeing how well some of our guys are doing starting off with essentially a stock car and just safety equipment. Seat time, getting use to traffic is more important, you can always finish the suspension when time and money permits.

I agreed with everything Lee said except the timing belt. For a $12 part it sure can cause a whole lot of damage if it breaks. I had a timing belt break on my first 944 (many years ago) and the results were seven bent valves, two damaged pistons and a damaged head.
So now that's the first thing I always change out when I acquire a unknown 944 whether its for street or track.

Good luck on the build out and go out there and have fun!
--Ken

Re:New member & new build 16 years, 3 months ago #1914

  • Schumi
  • OFFLINE
  • Drivers Ed
  • Posts: 3
Thanks for the advice guys.

The wheels on the car now will soon be getting some Azenis's and be getting swapped to my red '87 924S as those wheels are in better condition than the ones that came on my other car to begin with! The old set then will get repainted and sold most likely in order to fund getting some 7's.

The idea is just that- the entire thing is getting stripped as light as possible with no effort spared. Parts of the wiring harness that will no longer be needed have been cut off. I'm working on selling things like the switches and motors that won't get used to partially fund the engine freshening. It was a low mileage motor to begin with and I don't forsee anything major it will need other than a headgasket. Electrical system was good before I dismantled everything, let's hope it is still good after the motor goes back in.

Another begging question I guess I have is"
Is there any set said way to secure the sunroof, and are replacement panels allow in the sunroof's place? I know a hillclimb guy who prepped an older Carrera GT with the sunroof... to shave weight he substituted the sunroof for a permanent riveted carbon fiber panel. I take it this is not allowed though. So as far as holding the original sunroof in without using the original latches .... any ideas?



Thanks again guys.
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