Update from the weekend. My 1st set f tires reached 21 heat cycles, and set the fastest time of my weekend on HC 18. Neal obliterated the track record with his 17th heat cycle tires. Niether of us went faster on new tires (though Neal felt his new tires felt a bit faster).

4 degrees of camber up front both felt better, and was a bit faster for both of us.

Pictures of my 21 heat cycles tires are at the bottom. The splits mostly healed with rotation. So Neal & I are getting pretty good life & performance out of these tires, but others are not, usually by cording the outside edge. My take on this is that it is important to keep the tire from rolling over. My theory is that more camber helps, and also running quite a bit of roll stiffness has helped.

So, crank up the camber, and antisway bars (as possible).

What do you recommend for the rear camber?

I am now at -3.7 F.L. -3.9 FR
-3.5 R.L. -3.7 RR

I posted earlier that mine corded the outer edge with -3.6, so I am up .3 on the right side tires for Laguna next weekend.

Hi Norm, I run a little under 3 in the rear and that has worked for the So-Cal tracks. I am similar on the fronts with more camber on the dominant side front and rear.
I found that if I made the camber equal it would cord the outer edge on the dominant side and the inner edge on the weak side.
These tires do require more care and feeding.

I am not able to get quite to -3 in the rear, but close, so that's where I am at, with -4 in front. Ride height, and roll stiffness may play a roll in getting the tire to stay square to the pavement.

I do not believe that the stock rear end can get 3 degrees of camber and certainly not 3.7 degrees. One of my cars struggled to get even 2.7 degrees. I know Tyler's car, at Chuckwalla, looked like it had much more that 2.7 degrees.

How are people getting 3.7 degrees???????

Big Dog

Not sure why mine get's to -3.7, maybe it's an early/late thing, but I have never tried until recently to get that much and I got it with no problem, it's stock as far as I know.